The overland railway from Oslo to Bergen was supposed to be the most beautiful train route in Europe, and I did not have a window seat. This unfortunate turn of events was

  The woman two spots in front of me in line at the Seattle-mermaid airport coffee shop moved slowly, deliberately. Her hand searched the air beside her, eventually finding a wallet in

I write this on the TGV—le train à grande vitesse, literally “the train of great speed”—from Paris to Geneva, losing myself in the melancholy ballads of Petra Marklund and wondering exactly what